Sewing machine



Aprii 29 1924. 1,4922 79 C. H. VOGEL SEWING MACHINE Filed pril 30 1921 8 Shets-Sheet 1 A ril 29 1924.

, 1,492,279 c. H. VOGEL v SEWING MACHINE Filed April 30. 1921 8 Sheets-Sheet 2 Apri? 29 1924. 1,492,279

' C. H. VOGEL.

SEWING MACHINE Filed April 30. 1921 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 Aprii 29 1924. 7 1,492,279

C. H. VOGEL SEWING MACHINE Filed April 50. 1921 8 Sheets-Sheet 4 April 29 1924. 1,492,279

C.H=VOGEL SEWING MACHINE Filed pril 30, 1921 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 4 lllllllllllill 1| April 29 1924.

c. H. VOGEL.

SEWING MACHINE F'ile'd Ap ilso. 1921 8 Sheets-Sheet v April 2 1924. 1,492,279

C.H.VOGEL SEWING MACHINE Filed April 30. 1921 8 Sheets-$heet 8 l VIII/111111111.

Federated Apr. 29, 1924.

CHARLES H. V'OGEL, OF CHICAGO, ILLINGIS, ASSIGNOB TO JOElEPH SALTZMAN, OF

crrrcneo,

ILLINOIS.

SEWING MACHINE.

Application filed. April 30, 1921.

To all whom it may OO'ROGWL.

Be it known that 1, CHARLES H. VosnL,

, of stitch above referred to.

Another feature of my machine relates to the producing of strictly ornamental stitching having characteristics whereby it is caused to very closely resemble braiding such as is now commonly separately formed and thereafter sewed to the garment to which it is to be applied, it being one of my objects in this connection to provide such a braiding stitch directly on the garment, or other object, to which it is to be applied.

Referring to the accompanying drawings, Fig. 1 is a view in side elevation. of a machine constructed in accordance with my invention. Fig. 2 is a bottom plan view of the bed of the machine and the operating mechanism. located below the latter. Fig. 3 is an end view of the machine. Fig. f is a view like Fig. 3, of certain of the parts shown therein, with certain parts, including the cover-plate and the nipple device removed, to disclose the interior details. Fig.5 is a plan view of the machine. Fig. 6 is a plan sectional view of the machine, the section being taken substantially in the plane of the drive shaft of the machine. Fig. 7 is a view like Fig. t with more of the parts of the machine removed. Fig. 8 is an enlarged sectional view taken at the line 8-8 of Fig. 7 and viewed in the direction of the arrows. Figs. 9, 10, ll, 12 and 13 are views, somewhat in the nature of diagrams, of certain parts of the stitchproducing mechanism showing this mechanism in different positions it assumes during the operation of making a stitch. 14 to 20 inclusive are views, somewhat in the nature of diagrams, illustrating the relative positions assumed by the presser represented at 50, in place therein.

Serial 1T0. 465,622.

bar, needle, nipple device, feed bar and the goods being sewed, during the operation of making a stitch. Figs. 21, 22 and 23 are plan views, showing certain parts in section, of a portion of the mechanism for laying on the thread in convoluted form to produce, in combination with the chain stitch, stitching of braid-like character.

Fig. 2% is a plan View of a piece of fabric showing thereon stitching as made by the machine of the preceding figures; and Fig. 25, a view like Fig. 2%, showing a form of stitching which may be made by providing two of the needles instead of one as shown.

The base of the machine is represented at 30, from which rises the hollow standard 31 provided with the usual lateral hollow extension 32, expanded at the outer end to form the hollow head 33, in accordance with the usual practice of providing sewing machines. The shaft through which power is applied to the operating mechanisms, hereinafter referred to, is represented at 34, this shaft extending lengthwise through the hollow extension and being journaled at its opposite ends in the web 35 of the extension 32 and in a boss-like portion 36 of the standard 31, this shaft being provided at one end with a hand wheel 37, and with pulleys 38 secured thereto, through the medium of which latter the shaft may be operated by any suitable power device as through the medium of a pulley, all in accordance with common practice, the shaft 34 being provided, intermediate its ends, with a crank like portion 39 for a purpose hereinafter explained. The shaft 34: is also provided with a bevel pinion 4O rigidly connected therewith and meshing with a bevel pinion 4:1 journaled in a. plate 42 located within the extension 32 and rigidly secured thereto, the pinion 41 having a rigid hubportion as which extends outwardly through the extension 32 and through an opening 44: in a cap-plate e5 releasable secured to the extension 32, as by screws 46, to close the opening in this extension, the outer end of the hub 43 being provided with a crank portion i7, for a purpose hereinafter explained.

The mechanism shown comprises a needle bar 48 equipped with means, represented at 4.9, at its lower end for securing a needle, lhe needle-bar 48, and also a feed'b-ar 51 presenting forwardly-projecting recess 51 til on its front edge and arranged along side of the bar 48, extend upwardly through openings 52 and 53 in the bottom and top, respectively, of the head 33, these two bars being located between two blocks 54 and 55 pivotally supported at 56 and 57 respectively, on the head 33. The needle-bar 48 is rigidly connected flatwise at its rear side, with a block 58, the rear face of which is provided with a reversely-curved cam-slot 59 extending crosswise of the. block and into which a roller 60 extending outwardly from a disk 61 ri 'idly secured to the forward end of the shaft 34, and located within the head 33, extends, the roller 60 being journaled on the disk 61 eccentrically of the axis of the shaft 34, whereby when the shaft 34 is rotated, the block 58 and consequently the needle-bar 48 is caused to move up and down in the head 33. The feedbar 51 is provided with a forwardly-projecting pin 62 on which a swinging plate 63 is pivoted, this plate containing in its depending portion an irregularly shaped elongated slot 64 preferably of the shape shown and presentinga relatively straight portion 65, the curved portion 66 and the posed relative to the straight portion 65,

into which slot (64) a roller 68 projecting forwardly from the needle-bar 48, extends. A spring device represented at 69 operates against an edge of the feed-bar 51 and tends to swing this bar, together with the needlebar 48, to the right in Figure 4, this spring member being formed of a vertical section 70 extending along the outer side of the head 33 and connected therewith by a screw 71, with its lower end bent to provide the substantially horizontal portion/T2 atv which the device extends loosely through an opening 73 in the side of the head, with the extremity of the portion 72 bent forwardly to present the part 74 at which the spring device bears against the side of the feed-bar 51. Located to one side of the feedbar 51 and needle bar 48, is a presser-bar75 which is located within the head 33 and is recip- 'rocable up and down therein, the bar 75 7 end of the feed-bar 51, the needle 50 and the nipple portion 103 of a bar 102 hereinafter referred to, operate.

The upper end of the bar 75-is guided in a tubular member screwed into an opening in the top'of the head 33;.a coil spring 81, surrounding aportion of the bar 7 5 and confined between a shoulder 82 thereon, and the lower end of the member 80, serving to normally force the resser-foot 78 toward the portion ofthe base 30 upon which the goods, to be stitched, are supported, in the act of forming the stitches, to clamp the goods intermittently during certain operations of the machine, as hereinafter described. 7 The p-resser-bar 7 5 is provided with a forwardly extending roller 83 which extends into a recess 84 :in an edge of the plate 63. The up and down movements of the feed-bar 51 and the presserbar75 are efi'ected wholly from the needle-bar 48 in the up and down movements of the latter given to it by the cooperation of the roller 60 with the carnrslot 59. So long as the feed'bar 51 extends out of pressurecontact with the goods, up and down movement of the needle-bar 48 does not operate to actuate the presser-b-ar 75, but as soon as the feed-bar 51 has lowered to a position in which it is forcibly pressed down against the goodsbeneath it, the continued lowering of the needle-bar, by reason of the pivot 62 becoming nondescending, compels a rocking of the plate 63 and a come quent raising of the presser-foot 7 5 above the goods, in opposition to the action of the spring 81, the pivot 62 remaining relatively fixed in the movement of the needlebar upwardly, until the presser-foot forcibly engagesthe goods, whereupon the roller 83 becomes a relatively fixed fulcrum for the plate and continued upward movement of the needle-bar operates to raise the feedb-ar 51.

In the operation of the machine the feedbar 51 and needle-bar 48, while relatively movable up and down, are caused to be moved back and forth together, simultaneously in line with the stitch to be made, for

.the purpose of effecting the proper feeding of the goods by the engagement therewith of the feed-bar 51, a description of. the mechanism provided for this purpose being as follows, it being stated as a premise to the following description that while the bars 48 and 51 are so related to the other parts of the machine, at the upper portion of the head 33, as hereinbefore described, as to permit these bars to move up and down relative to each other and to be held substantially in the manner of a. pivot, their lower ends are free to be swung back andforth, the slot 52 being sufficiently elongated, as shown in Fig. 4, to permit'of this movementof the bars 48 and 51. The mechanism for swinging these bars includes the disk 61, the periphery of which is in the form of a cam, preferably of substantially the shape shown, with which cooperates a roller 85 journaled on the upper end of an arm 86 presenting a curved portion 87 bearing against a roller 88 projecting forwardly from a. segmental member 89 in the formof a segmental rack and engaging with, and adjustable along, a curved guide-way 91 screwed to the inner wall of the head 33, screws 92 serving to releasably secure the member 89 in adjustable position on the guide-way 91. Apinion 93 fixed on a shaft 94 journaled in the wall of the head 33 and provided with a finger portion 95 bywhich it may be turned, extends into meshed condition with the rack 90 and serves as a means whereby this rocking plate may be adjusted to vary the position of the roller 88 along the curved surface 87. The lower end of the member 86 is pivotally connected at 96 with the upper end of a rock member 97, in the form of a bell-crank lever pivoted between its ends to the head 33, by a pivot pin 98 projecting forwardly from the rear wall of the head 33. Located at the joint between the members 86 and 97, 1S a spring 99 which bears at its: upper extremity 100 against the lower end of the member 86, and tends to rock the member 97 on the pivot 98 in clockwise direction in Fig. 7, the lower end of this spring operatively engaging with, and being held in position on, the members 86 and 97 adjacent the pivot 98. The members 86 and 97 are rocked on their respective fulcrums 96 and 98, respectively, and against the action of the spring 99, by the rotation of the disk 61, the degree to which the member 97 is rocked, with each complete rotation of the disk 61, depending upon the position occupied by the roller 88 relative to the roller 85, and which is varied through the medium of the rack and pinion mechanism hereinbefore described. The rock member 97 is the member through the medium of which the needle-bar 48 and the feedbar 51 are, caused to move rearwardly as a unit, as hereinbetore referred to, the member 97, to this end, being provided with a roller 101 journaled thereon and between which and the portion 74 of the spring 69, the bars 48 and 51 are confined, the spring 69 at all times yieldingly forcing the bar 48 against the roller 101, but yielding under the action of the rock member 97 in rocking in clockwise direction in Fig. 4.

Cooperating with the needle 50 is a nipple-bar 102, the nipple portion of which is represented at 103 and lies within the recess 51, the needle 50 being located within this nipple, and the nipple and needle being relatively movable lengthwise of each other. The nipple portion 103. is provided on the lower end of the bar 102 which is guidingly ,con'fined in a guide 104 secured to a removable cover-plate 1'05 forming a closure for the open side of the head 33, the upper end of this bar being pivoted to the outer end 106 of an L-shaped bar 107 piv0tally supported at'108 on a bracket109 secured to the inner wall'of the head 33, the

pivotal sup-port for the bar 107 being substantially horizontal, and this member being connected with the upper end ofa coil spring 110,'the lower 'endrof which is connected with a pin 111' on the interior of the head 33, this spring operating to yieldingly force the nipple bar downward. The me1nber 107 extends immediately above and into the path of movement of the cam-shaped peripheral portion of the disk 61, whereby rotation ofthis disk operates, in connection with the spring 110, to reciprocate the nipple bar. I

The mechanism for feeding the thread from which the chain stitch portion of the stitching is made, comprises the shaft 34, to the crank portion 39 of which, a link 112, is pivotally connected at 113, this link having a crank portion 114 pivotally connected with the upper end ofa rock lever 115 located in the standard31 and supported therein on trunnions 116 shown as in the form of screws, The lower end of this rock lever-115 is connected, through the medium of a universal joint 117, with one end of a rock lever 118 pivotally supported on a pin 119 depending from the base plate 30, the other short-arm 120 of this lever being pivotally c0nnected,as indicated at 121, with a link 122 the opposite end of which is pivotally connected at 123 with one arm 124 of a bellcrank lever 125 pivoted on a stud 126 depending from the base 30, the other end of the lever 125 being formed with an adjusta-- ble section 127 held to the main part'of the lever 125, by a screw 128, the extremityof the section 127 being provided with a tubular portion 129 containing an opening extending entirely therethrough. The rock lever 125 is also provided with a rod extension 130 extending substantially in line with the section 127 and substantially at a" right angle to the arm 124 of the lever 125, the

outer end of the extension 130 containing a thread receiving opening 131. The rock mechanism just described cooperates with thread guiding and tensioning mechanism shownas comprising a spring-finger 132 provided at its'free, outer,'extremity with an eye 133, this finger being shown at the end of a coil 134 of spring wire wound upona pin 135 extending laterally from a block 136'secured to the under side of the base 30, the extremity of the finger 132 being'adapted to move in all directions in opposition to its spring tension. Another spring finger, represented at 137, is provided, it being formed of a wire into a spiral 138 supported atone end from a screw 139 inthe base 30,'the out- ,er extremity of the spring arm 137 containing an eye 140for receiving the thread, this arm being preferably resilient in a SUbStfil'k tiallyhorizontalplane. The eyes 133 and i 140 are located to the rear of the shaft 34,

and positioned still further'to the rear, and

Hit)

between the eyes 133 and 140 is a guiding-eye 141 secured to the base and preferably formed of spring wire wound into a small coil. The base 30 is also provided with a thread-guiding eye 142 located in the rear of the eye 140 and the opening 131 in the rod 130 and therebetween. The base 30 also is provided with a threadtensioning device represented at 143 and which may be of a form commonly used in sewing machines, permitting the thread to be drawn through the same, but holding the thread against retrograde movement, the base 30 also having a depending.thread-guiding eye 144 located between the tensioning device 143 and an opening 145 in the base 30. The thread cooperating with the mechanism just described and represented at 200, "is provided'on the spool 146 supported from an upwardly extending bracket 147 on the member 32, the thread extending from this spool downward ly through thefopening 145 thence along the under side of the base 30, through the eye 144 into engagement with the tensioning device 143 thence through the eye 142, the opening 131, the eyes 140, 141 and 133, ing over a thread-bar 148 on the bracket 136, located bet-ween the eyes 133 and 141, and

thence upwardly through the tubular portion 129 of the lever 1 25. 7

' The operation of the machine, in so it has been described is as follows Assuming that a piece of goods to be stitched and represented at 149 is positioned to extend across the top of the base '30 and beneath the presser-foot 78;. to begin the stitching the shaft 34 is rotated in clockwise direction in Fig. 4, to a position in which the resser-foot, the nipple 103 and the feed-bar 51, bear down on the goods 149, and the needle penetrates the goods and extends at itshookportion 150 below the base 30, as shown in Fig. '14. The end of the thread 200 projecting. upwardly through the sleeve 129 then moves to a position in which it becomes introduced into' the hook portion 150 to extend acrossthe needle. Theshaft 34 continuing its rotation operates to'raise the nipple 103, needle .50'and the feed-bar 51, the nipple, feed-bar and needle rising to the exaggerated position shown in Fig. 15 wherein the hook 150 of the needle extends into the nipple, thereby forming a loop 151 i 1 in the thread which extends upwardly through the fabric 149, the raising of the feed-bar 5'1, nipple 103 and'needle 50 being effected through the medium of. the plate 63,.and the connections of the latter with thefeed-bar and needle-bar, the operative n connections-between the shaft. 34 and the .1 rearward osition breason of the en a efar as ment of the high part of the cam 61 with the roller 85 in which position the roller 101 is at the extreme end of its movement to the left in the face view drawings thereof. As the feed-bar, needle-bar and the nipple-bar near their uppermost position, the presser- I spring 81, the high part of the cam 61- moves out of engagement with the roller thereby permitting thespring 69 to act against the feed-bar, with the result of swinging the feed-bar, needle-bar, and with the latter, the nipple-bar, (the nipple-bar being pivoted at 106) forwardly, viz. to the right in the face View drawings of these parts, as for example to the position shown by full lines in Fig. 16. Continued rotation of'the shaft 34 operates to lower the feed-bar 51 and the needle-bar to a position in which the lower end of the feed-bar rests against the goods 149 and the needle 50 penetrates the goods at a point forward of the place where it withdrew from the goods in its upward movement previously described, (the needle assuming substantially the position shown in Fig. 17) the needle in the downward movement just referred to passing through the loop 151, and the presser-foot 78 rising by reason of the rocking of the plate 63 against the roller 83 as shown in Fig. 17. As the needle 50 continues its downward movement,

the nipple 103 lowers, the presser-foot 78 being raised, and by the time the needle 50 of the disk'61 rides againstthe roller 85 with theresult of rocking the lever 86 in anticlockwise direction in F ig. 7, and thereby rocking the lever 97 in clockwise direction in this figure which results in the roller'101 moving to the left in Fig. 7 and against the needle-bar which rocks the latter and with it the feed-bar and the nipple-bar rearwardly. The pressure-bar 78 being raised, the result of rocking the feed-bar rearwardly, is to bodily shift the goods 149 to the rear, this shifting action being represented in Fig. 19

' wherein the needle is shown in original position by dotted lines and in the position, to. V

which itismovedin the goods-feeding operation, in full lines. As the needle-bar rises from the position shown in Fig. 14 to that shown in Fig. 16, the lever 125 is automatica-llyrocked, bythe mechanism shown in Fig. 2'and hereinbefore described, from substantially the position shown in Fig. 2 wherein the tubular member 129 extends to the rear of the needle 50 and slightly to the left thereof, viewing the machine as in Fig. 7

' 5, to a position in which this'tubular member the tubular member 129 traveling through curved path. The rocking of the lever 125 serves to cause the thread to extend from the point where it passes through the goods, at the sleeve 103, in a plane to the right of the needle viewing the machine as in Fig. 5. After the needle has descended to a position slightly lower than that shown in Fig. 17 the lever 124 commences to rock in anticlockwise direction in Fig. 2, and before the needle has again risen to a point where its hook 150 is above the lower surface of the base 30, the lever 124 will have continued its return movement, and in moving from the right hand side of the needle, to the left hand side thereof, viewing the machine as in Fig. 5, it will cause the thread at the under side of the base to extend in looped condition across the front portion of the needle, namely that containing the hook 150, so that as the needle continues its upward movement it will draw thethread in looped form, this loop being represented at 152, upwardly through the fabric and through the loop 151 previously formed, as shown in Fig. 20, the previously formed loop 151 being held down on the goods and out of the way of the ascending hook 150 by the nipple 103, thereby preventing the hook from catching this previously formed loop. Shortly after the movement to its lowermost position and fol-v lowing the rearward feeding of the goods 149 as stated (Fig. 19) the needle starts to rise and also the feed-bar 51, the presser-bar moving downward upon the goods as the tension of the feed-bar 51 against the goods becomes reduced. The rocking of the meniber 19/1 in anti-clockwise direction in Fig. 2 operates to draw from the spool 146 a certaln length of thread. It will be noted from Figs. 16 to 20 inclusive that whereas the loop 151 is relatively long when first formed, its length is very. much reduced, before the newly formed loop 152 has been drawn through the loop 151. The reason for this is that as the needle 50 ascends, the thread being held with sui'licient friction by the tensioning de-' vice 143 to prevent the pulling of the same therethrough, it exerts a pull on the thread sufficient to draw the loop 151 loosely about the needle 50, at a point above the hook 150, causing the loop 151 to assume the condition shown in Fig. 20 in which condition the loop 152 extends upwardly therethrough. It will be noted that a cycle of operations for making one stitch is represented by Figs. 15 to 20 inclusive, this cycle of operations being repeated so long as the machine operates, thereby causing the chain stitching to be produced on the fabric 149.

The length of the finished loops forming he chain stitch portion 153 iscontrolled, or in other words the stitch is regulated as to length, through the medium of the mem ber 89 carrying the fulcrum roller 88 against which the member 86 rocks, the length of stitch being increased by rotating the pinion 93 in clockwise direction in Fig. 7 and decreased by rotating it in the opposite direction.

I The machine as shown is adapted not only for the production of a chain-stitch as stated, but also for producing stitching of which the chain-stitch portion 153 is a part only, to form stitching closely resembling a certain variety of braiding, as for example that shown at the'left hand end of the stitching illustrated in Fig. 24, wherein, in addition to the chain stitch 153 the stitching includes a convoluted or zig-zag portion 154, this convoluted portion being held to the fabric149 by the chain stitching 153 and being formed in the operation of producing the chainstitch. The mechanism shown for this purpose involves a member 155 which extends vertically and is .journaled between its ends in bearings 156 and 157 carried on the exterior surface of the plate 105. The upper end of the rod 155 is provided with a laterally extending portion 158 extending above the plate 105 and pivotally connected, at 159, with the extremity of the horizontal arm 160 of an L-shaped extension of a rod 162 pivotally connected at its other end, by the stud 163, with the crank portion 47 hereinbefore referred to, the vertically extending portion 164 of the L-shaped extension 161 connecting the horizontal portion 160 of this L-shaped portion, with the outer end of the rod 162. The lower end of the rod 155 which, in the operation ofthe machine is caused to oscillate, is provided with a thread engaging eye-equipped portion 165 preferably formed of a sleeve 166 surroui'iding the lower end of the rod 155 and secured thereto as by a screw 167, and a separate section 168 which extends upwardly into said sleeve and preferably frictionally gripped by the latter, the lower end of the portion 168 presenting the portion 1.69 which extends substantially horizontally and isoof general curved form as shown in Fig. 6, with the eye above referred to, and represented at 170, located at its outer extremity, The thread for forming the portion 154 of the stitching and which is operated on by the rod member 155, in a manner hereinafter described, is represented at 171, this thread extending from any suitable source, as for example a spool journaled at any suitable location on through an eye 17 2 on the head 38, and a tensioning device 173 thereon and which may be of any desirable construction, thence through eyes 174,175 and 176 arranged in general triangular formation and thence through the eye 170. The eyes 174 and 17 6 are shown as of rigid construction, whereas the eye 175 is yieldable, the latter being formed in the lower end of one of the extremities of a coil 178 of spring wire rigidly the machine,

secured at its other end, at a screw 179, to the head 33. V

It will be understood from the foregoing that with each complete rotation of the shaft 34, the rod 155 will make a single oscillation, namely rotating in one direction, successive rotations of the shaft 34: rotating the rod 155 in opposite directions, the parts of the mechanism nowbeing described being so so constructed and arranged that as the rod 155 in its swinging movement lays the thread 171 across the line of the chain stitching, the presser foot 78 is raised, permitting the thread to pass beneath it. At, or substantially at, the end of the swinging movement of the rod 155, in each movement of the latter, the presser foot 78 lowers and bears down on the thread thus laid across the line of chain-stitch, and remains in lowered condition, in the oscillation of the rod 155 in the opposite direction and across the line of the chain-stitch, until the feed-bar 151 lowers onto the goods and down upon the thread 171 laid across the chainstitch- .ing in the operation first described, this'feed bar which also performs the function of a presser bar, holding the thread thus laid, in looped condition at one side of the lineof the stitching until the presser-foot- 78 in again lowering, bears down on the section of thread 171, laid across the chain-stitching in the opposite direction, by the second operation referred to, the feeding of the goods as hereinbefore explained, occurring while the rod 155 is practically at rest, viz., when the crank 47 is passing through dead center. The presser foot 78 and feed bar 51 thus cooperate with the portions of the thread 171 caused by the oscillations ofthe rod 155 to be laid across the stitching in zigzag formation as shown at 15a in Fig. 2 1, to cause the loops .thus formed bv the thread 171 at opposite sides of the chain stitch, to extend beyond the latter the desired distance, the loops forming the chain stitch and formed in succession by the needle 50 in its operation as hereinbefore stated, being carried over by the successive feeding movements of the goods to a positionin which they overlap, and thus securely hold in position, the convoluted thread portions 15 1. It will furthermore be noted that in the final movement of drawing the thread 171, forming the stitching 15 1, from the spool thereof, by the arm 169 completing its 'move ment to one side of the stitching, the thread laid across the chain stitch in this operation, is held down by the combination feed and presser bar 51 thus preventingthe thread, forming the stitching 154, from being drawn taut, which results in the formation of the loops of the stitching 15 1, at the-opposite sides of the chain stitch. While l have illustrated and described particular construction of machine embodymg my invention I do not wish to be understead of the single one shown, to produce parallel lines of chain stitching as shown at 300 in Fig. 25, and the mechanism for oscillating the rod 155 so proportioned that the throw of this rod will be suflicient to cause the thread lead thereby to extend in convoluted, or z1gzag,format1on, as represented at 301, across both linesof stitching 300 and held down by the loops of the last-referredto stitching, thereby to produce the character of stitching shown in Fig; 25.

lVhat I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. In a chain-stitch machine, the combination of a support for the material to be stitched, a needle-bar supported to reciprocats and have swinging movement and equipped with a needle and operating in its reciprocating movements to loop thread through the material, means for reciprocating said needle-bar, member mounted to be moved into and out of engagement with the material and swing with said needle-bar, means for swinging said needle-bar and member to effect feed of the material in'the line of the stitching, and means operating, in the movement of said needle-bar for causing a loop to pass through a loop previously formed, to bear down. on such previously formed loop.

2. In a chain-stitch machine, the combination of a support for the material to be stitched, a needle-bar supported to reciprocate and have swinging movement and equipped with a needle and operating in its reciprocating movements to loopthread through the material, means for reciprocating said needle-bar, a member mounted to.

be moved into and out of engagement with the material. and swing with said needlebar, means for swinging said needle-bar and member to effect feed of the material in the line of the stitching, and means arranged to swing with said needle-bar and member and operating, in the movement of said needlebar for causing a loop to pass through a loop previously formed to bear down on such previously formed loop.

3. In a machine of the character described, the combination of a needle bar having reciprocatory and swinging movement, means for reciprocating said needle into and out of the material to be stitched, and for moving said needle in the direction of the line of stitching, means for delivering thread to the needle when it extends below the material, the needle operating to draw loops of the thread through the material and through previously formed loops, and means for causing thread to be laid in zig-zag formation on the material in position to be secured to the material by the loops formed 20 by said needle.

CHARLES H. VOGEL. 

